Dictator chic

It apparently isn't acceptable to publicly pronounce on the aesthetics of dictators (as Bryan Ferry undeservedly knows to his cost). However, as we practice entirely inconsistent social rules on this, I can comment positively on the iconography of Chinese communists, who in Mao count the bigger mass murderer in history, without criticism and Beijing is the place to do it. It's not all good - the illuminated face of the embalmed corpse of Mao reminded me of nothing more than a second rate saint's body in one of those cheap catholic churches - but the spectacular bits were spectacular.

That said, the best bits by miles are imperial. A & I disagree on the detail (her favourite day remains the great wall; mine the forbidden city), but both were spectacular, and a terrifying testament to the sheer scale of China and its Emperors. It's also the best stuff we have seen in China. I'm struck, as with the terracotta warriors, that the famous big bits haven't been a  disappointment at all. The central courtyards and pavilions of the imperial forbidden city were beautiful and, as expressions of imperial power, comparable with even the most bombastic expressions of European imperialism, and certainly more powerful than the south side of the square, where communist monumentalism is shown to full effect. The Great Wall has much the same effect, though our stretch also had a slide.

Beijing also seemed (to us) a great city to visit. We were helped by having a great little hostel, where we often retreated after dinner (the Chinese do eat early) and drink cheaply with wifi. But we also had some great times out and the food was fantastic & pretty cheap. Partly this is us cracking China a bit more, but also Beijing being accessible and relatively welcoming: nonetheless, our 56p dumpling lunch on Wednesday remains a highlight.

Overall, then China has been fab. I was a little taken aback by it at first - simultaneously disorientated by the total unfamiliarity of the language &c but also surprised by the modernity, especially when implicitly comparing it to the middle east. But after that initial shock, it's been pretty easy to manage (even train tickets weren't too difficult, though highly stressful). I wish I had learnt more about Buddhist liturgy (and the Bodhisattvas) in advance, and maybe a little about imperial history (still largely limited to Mongols, Ming, Manchu). In fact generally, I wish I'd come earlier, and I think we'll be back.

Japan now. Radiation be damned.