Epitaph for Empire

written 16th March

As I write this we're on the train between Hong Kong and Shanghai [as I publish, it's the 3rd of April, given China's absurd firewall], a monster train journey of 18 hours, made more bearable by our private compartment, but less bearable by the fact they will not take Hong Kong dollars, which are the only currency we have on us. We are surviving on biscuits.

The four days we've had in Hong Kong have been more stressful and much more alcoholic than we'd intended. Japan's disaster is on our minds at the moment, partly because we've only really managed to get NHK World (Japan's English Language news channel) in the hotel, but mostly because it makes the rest of the holiday a nightmare to plan. While nothing compared to death toll and risk of a nuclear winter that the Japanese are facing, it's own little cross to bear. A tells me this is callous, but it's the bit I am worried about.
Hong Kong made it all seem quite far away, both literally and metaphorically. An 18 hour train journey makes you feel the distance we're covering here, but there's also a curious air of unreality about the holiday so far - Hong Kong and Macau feel very much like what they are - little enclaves of Europe, complete with each country's foibles. We had custard tarts on Macau and I'm delighted to note there is an M&S in Hong Kong. Last night, aside from the warmth and the slightly more civilised atmosphere, we spent the late evening in what could have been an English town centre, albeit one from the late 1990s. Two nights ago, we watched the faintly depressing rugby in the company of a raggle taggle set of other Anglos. Part of the this has been made possible by the excellent hospitality from my mother's godson, who despite not having seen me since he rescued me from certain death in the snow 25 years ago, has been welcoming above and beyond the call of duty, but I also suspect Hong Kong is just a bit like that. It's been great fun, though too many parts of it have been spent hungover.

Things we have learnt:

• All the main tourist things are in fact great - the Peak, Macau, the Star Ferry, the big Buddha (of which more later) - though there seems to be little else to see, apart from some markets
• Beware the weather. Though warm, it is always hazy so take advantage of whatever clarity you can. Definitely don't go up onto a mountain when the cloud cover is low. It will waste an afternoon, and make you cold and wet.
• Take your hotel's card with you out drinking: trying to explain where you want to go to a non-English speaking taxi driver, while tipsy, at 1:30, is not straightforward.
• There is nothing past the gate at the international departure terminal at the station. Change your money and buy your food beforehand