In the shadow of the mushroom cloud

Hiroshima is now only figuratively under the shadow of the bomb, but that shadow is long. So far, we seem to have been to parts of Japan that will forever be defined by their history. But while Kyoto glories in an imperial past that it has polished and renewed; for Hiroshima, the bomb's pervasive influence is sombre, though there is much else to note and like about the city. This is not just a result of its 'fame', but the physical impact of the bomb meant the city had to be rebuilt (and remodelled) and to this day, more recipients of the government's special health care for bomb survivors live in Hiroshima than anywhere else. Inevitably this means A & I have had an argument about the rectitude of the bombing which I won't relate here because a) I'm not sure about some of the facts (the Japanese telling is OK, but selective), b) it needs some thinking out and c) I may be inflammatory and it's not worth it. Maybe for a later post.

The city itself is however great. The centre is compact, there are an extraordinary number of bars and restaurants, including many serving one of my new favourite foods, the artery clogging oikonomiyaki. It's well linked up (we went to Himeji on the way and Miyajima for an afternoon), and has trams everywhere. Fab. The remodelling of the city also means that it's simple to navigate and on one of the key islands (Hiroshima is on a river delta, who knew?) by the epicentre a great peace park has been created - the museums and monuments are there, but it's also a great public space. The museums and monuments themselves are excellent and interesting (if a bit determinedly naive). The key museum is well done, and restrained. However, The jewel in Hiroshima's crown though is the island of Miyajima, while has a lovely set of temples, the highlight of which is the Daisho-in, and a little hilltop from which the inland sea can be seen. Just wonderful.